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Replacing the fan motor for Series 2

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ejag66 Avatar
ejag66 Platinum Member Ward Hill
Ridgeley, West Virginia, USA   USA
The right hand fan motor has failed (shorted). Removal and replacement seems impossible without removing the bonnet and radiator. Any better way?

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Andrys Posthuma Avatar
Delft, Z-H, Netherlands   NLD
1935 MG N-Type Magnette
1969 Jaguar E-Type 2+2 "The E"
1976 MG MGB GT "The B"
It seems to me you can just remove the motor together with its three legged carrier.

ejag66 Avatar
ejag66 Platinum Member Ward Hill
Ridgeley, West Virginia, USA   USA
Andrys,
The bracket is attached to the shroud with three :bolts" or "studs" with heads on the inside of the shroud. Are these heads "captured" so the will not turn? Still really difficult to reach the innermost nut, but may be possible. I would really like to know the heads are captured before I try the nuts.

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69Series2 Tom P
Hartsville, SC, USA   USA
No, the bolt heads are not captive. Gotta reach in with a small box end wrench to hold while you remove nut, then use your fingertip to catch the bolt and remove it, and make sure you don't drop it into shroud bottom. If you drop you could retrieve with magnet.

You do not need to remove hood or radiator, but it will be much easier if you raise the front of the car several inches by driving onto, or placing front tires on three layers of 2x8 or 2x10, then uncouple hood strut (if you have one) or disconnect bonnet spring assembly on each side. Then you can raise bonnet way up just beyond vertical (because 2x10's have provided enough clearance that your bumper overriders will not hit the ground/floor). However you will need piece of rope to secure bonnet top edge to bonnet catch on firewall, because heavy bonnet past center will want to keep swinging beyond vertical away from car until overriders or bonnet smash into something and cause damage.

This added access to engine compartment makes radiator removal, and any access to water pump, etc. extremely easy.

sjoholm Avatar
sjoholm ROBERT BAYERS
Annapolis, MD, USA   USA
As a point of interest, the failure of one fan results in the other fan drawing hot engine compartment air through the inoperative fan opening rather than through the radiator (a short circuit of sorts). This can lead to major overheating. When I had to replace my radiator with an alloy one I added an 8 blade fan in front of the radiator and ran it off the ignition switch (through a relay of course) since I never trusted the otter switch. Even in 90 degree heat my gauge barely gets above the cool reading.



Robert Sjöholm Bayers
1971 Jaguar Series II OTS
1952 Jaguar 120 Roadster
1961 Jaguar Mark IX Saloon
1961 Porsche 356B 1600N Coupe
1961 Porsche 356B 1600 Super Roadster
1958 Porsche 356A Speedster

ejag66 Avatar
ejag66 Platinum Member Ward Hill
Ridgeley, West Virginia, USA   USA
Hi Tom, Welcome and thanks. However, I note with great sorrow that, at 82, nothing is "extremely easy" any more!. I have worked these @$!## machines for 50 years and come to understand the evil they harbor, but your tip is right on, provided I can still get my hands in there. My car has useless air conditioning with the condenser in front of the radiator that I would like to remove as well, so am considering more than the fan replace. More to come.

Andrys Posthuma Avatar
Delft, Z-H, Netherlands   NLD
1935 MG N-Type Magnette
1969 Jaguar E-Type 2+2 "The E"
1976 MG MGB GT "The B"
82... I salute you sir, and being 42 I can only wish that I can still turn a wrench when I'm at your age!

Tom has a good suggestion and indeed, be careful with that bonnet. It's heavier than I thought anyway.

Cheers, Andrys

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sjoholm Avatar
sjoholm ROBERT BAYERS
Annapolis, MD, USA   USA
Per my previous reply, that's exactly what i did, replacing the condenser with an 8 blade fan, removing all the A/c stuff and the double fan. I left the alternator as is, since it its in a much cooler location.



Robert Sjöholm Bayers
1971 Jaguar Series II OTS
1952 Jaguar 120 Roadster
1961 Jaguar Mark IX Saloon
1961 Porsche 356B 1600N Coupe
1961 Porsche 356B 1600 Super Roadster
1958 Porsche 356A Speedster

69Series2 Tom P
Hartsville, SC, USA   USA
I can certainly sympathize, Ward - I am 72 and regularly experience a great deal of discomfort while wrestling with my E. A variety of ailments doesn't help, either. But it does provide immense pleasure when you are able to meet the challenge. I admire your capabilities.

Be aware that if you raise the front to raise the hood past vertical, the safety rope from bonnet catch to bonnet top will certainly keep it from opening too far forward, but if accidentally bumped back past vertical towards the windshield, the bonnet will close with a vengeance - it is quite heavy. Best to use two ropes, to keep it from tipping beyond in either direction. Nevertheless, the open access to the engine compartment provided with this approach is fantastic.

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ejag66 Avatar
ejag66 Platinum Member Ward Hill
Ridgeley, West Virginia, USA   USA
Tom and Others,
Well, as Tom has suggested, the motor and carrier bracket can be removed as an assembly, although with difficulty. Note the manual advises removing the shroud with both motors attached. However, with cars with air conditioning, the alternator is seriously in the way. I have attached pictures of the process, including the payment one makes to the Prince of evil!

I had to invent some special techniques to reinsert the screws, since we all have learned long ago that refitting is NOT the reverse of removal! BTW, take care with these screws since they have a finer than standard thread pitch (not #10 X 32) with special pointed ends. After inserting the top outside screw and nut, I did use #10 screws inserted from the rear to line up the remaining holes before tightening the first screw. Now for the first trick: I could not grasp the screw heads firmly with fingers and reach the holes inside the shroud, so I attached a screw with masking tape to the one finger that could reach the hole. Push the screw through the tape from the sticky side and wrap the tape around the finger tip. Feel the hole with one finger and insert the screw with the other. Trick number two is to hold the screw in place while starting the nut. Again, masking tape attached to the finger sticky side out with a band around the finger, could be placed over the screw head and with finger pressure was strong enough to get the nut on and snugged. Recall that these nuts are nylon lock-nuts, so have to be wrenched all the way. After snugging down, the head can be held with a "short" 5/16 open end wrench for tightening. I found my box ends did not work due to the angle of the head. Also, hope to have a good 1/4 inch ratchet with fine clicks, because there is little room for movement, and much pressure of the arms against hardware on the block.

Also like to give a shout to SNG Barratt for supplying a matching made-in-the-US square motor.

Hope this helps the next victim.


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ejag66 Avatar
ejag66 Platinum Member Ward Hill
Ridgeley, West Virginia, USA   USA
Last thoughts.
1. Since one has to reach through the fan blades to reach the screw heads, forget the use of six bladed fans when R&R the motors using this procedure.
2. There are available a replacement shroud with two high performance fans supplied as a system. I would have used the manual method to remove the shroud, but the nuts for the 4 retaining screws are inside and buried under the aft edge of the radiator core, again with no apparent cage to prevent them from rotating, and no way to put a wrench (socket) on them.

So with the help of you all, again, the job is done. Thanks.

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