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The E-Type (XK-E) Forum

New owner -- lots of restoration questions

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MrZ Chad Zagorski
Clarkston, USA   USA
Greetings all --

I recently purchased a "1.25" series Jaguar E-type 2+2. This is a father-son project and my son is very excited to have it. He picked it out.

1. The car currently has the dual Zenith-Stromberg carbs and is running well, but this car was manufactured in April of 1967 and my research says it came with triple SU's. Any suggestions would be helpful -- tempted to either take it back to original ($$$), go with triple Webers, or the engineer in me wants to do some type of FI conversion. The SU's seem like the easiest conversion to do, but probably the costliest.

2a. Anti-chip paint on the lower body: The car was repainted in its original color some time ago, and has a stone-guard paint applied below the bumper-line. Is that common? Ideally, would like to grind that off, but the rest of the paint is in okay condition, and grinding this off would likely result in the need for a respray.

2b. Assuming a respray will be in order, my son would like to change the color to BRG. I know this is much more involved, what I am not sure of is how much this might hurt the value of the car.

3. Interior: The car came equipped with some weird 1970's brown interior, complete with incorrect front seat backs and a quilted fabric headliner. I have since sourced a set of front seats, but I still need a full interior. Any recommendations for a supplier? I have emailed OSJI but did not get a response. Also emailed a US-supplier of Suffolk&Turley interiors, again no response.

4. Glovebox door: I thought 2+2's came with a glovebox door, but this vehicle does not have it, nor does it seem like the right side dashboard ever had a door on it.

5. Lower dash: See picture .... it looks like something is missing from the lower dash, maybe a set of A/C vents. Any ideas?


We are loving the car so far. It is very solid and runs well.

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astralcc Barry Hartman
Helston, Cornwall, UK   GBR
Hi Chad,

You are correct a 2+2 should have a glove locker as per the attached PDF but if you look carefully you will see that the actual dash panel should be different. The panel on your car is the same as a 2 seater with a wider bar across the bottom. Either your car is an early one before all the mods were applied (in those days they were applied piecemeal) or there was a shortage on the line and they fitted what they had a the time. You will also note that there should be parcel trays under the dash both sides which i think is what the brackets are for.

With regard to the carbs I am not sure of the costs in the USA but in the UK there is now very little difference between SU's, Webber's or fuel injection. Personally for a normal touring car on carbs I would prefer SU's as they give a lot more performance than the CD's with good fuel consumption. Webber's can be a problem to keep set up if those fitted to a friends Austin Healey 3000 are anything to go by. The best would be fuel injection as it would also get rid of the distributor which by now will not be giving the correct advance curve especially with the changes in petrol/gas since the 60's. You can keep the looks by using the distributor as only a distributor with the FI system controlling the spark timing.

As usual its all down to money.

Regards

Barry

Coeshow Avatar
Coeshow Mike C
El Cajon, CA, USA   USA
Congratulations on your e-type! I concur with Barry on the interior items but disagree on the carb selection. You mention that the car is running great. Why go through the expense of swapping out the fuel system now when you feel other items are of higher priority? Many later model e-type owners are coerced to switch from the original Strombergs to triple SU’s. The only time SU’s will out perform the Strombergs is when running the car at wide open throttle positions. How often will that be? Properly operating Strombergs will also provide significantly better fuel mileage than triple SU’s as well. I can tell you this from experience. Most e-type owners don’t regularly drive their cars. I live in San Diego. I have owned and driven my Etype for the last ten years and have NEVER seen another Etype on the road.
There are a number of mods you can make to improve the performance of the Stromberg equipped intake. If originality is of prime concern, a little more research is in order. From the photos I can see the black ribbed cam covers that came with the later engines. If you trace the VIN back its possible that your car was originally equipped with polished cam covers and triple SU’s. It’s also possible that the original engine was replaced at some point with its current arrangement, or you may find that it’s all original.
In any event, have fun with the car and keep it a driver. They are a lot of fun, parts are available and you’ll get lots of compliments. Plus your son will truly appreciate all the memories! Feel free to PM me with any questions. Cheers!

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jagstar Ian Oswald
Santa Ana, CA, USA   USA
Good luck. Regarding respray I see from the photo that the front subframe is a different color from the car body. Originally the subframe was the same color as the car was painted on the line without the engine.
I agree with Coeshow that the most likely explanation is the engine has been replaced by a later engine. Suggest you look up Rob Riley’s post on www.jag-lovers.org/xk-lovers/library/engine_numbers.htm to find out.

MrZ Chad Zagorski
Clarkston, USA   USA
All,

Thanks for the great advice!! Lots of good insights.

The engine is puzzling, I suspect something happened along the way, maybe a even a small fire. Either that or it was restored back in the 1970's to a budget.

The block and head is original, the numbers match the dataplate and the Jaguar Heritage Trust certificate. But yes, the subframe is a different color, the carbs are from a later car, and the cam covers also are from a later car. The interior, likewise, has a glovebox bin from the two seater cars, and when I got it the seat covers were very 1970's, with unidentified highback seat backs. No matter, its a solid car with lots of potential, and its been a fun project to tinker with.

Glyn Ruck Avatar
Llandudno, Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa   ZAF
Having just completed a ground up restoration of a 1965/66 S Type, manual, OD on wires I can highly recommend John Skinner for upholstery kits. Jonathon goes well beyond the call of duty to ensure customer satisfaction.

https://www.john-skinner.co.uk/

scoupe89 Avatar
scoupe89 Jim Dunne
Phoenix, AZ, USA   USA
1968 Jaguar E-Type Convertible "Silver Bullet Roadster"
1969 Jaguar E-Type 2+2
1987 Jaguar XJ-SC "Hanger Queen"
1992 Jaguar XJ-S
A nice and unique car. It seems to have many of the series I features and also Series II. Remember a lot of the cars were produced with whatever was in the parts bin on the assembly line. I have experienced this with judges and purists, some that are clueless. Another aspect of then 1.5 series, 50 year old cars is that age and owners were not careful about documentation. If it runs good and looks good, just enjoy it. I seems to make other people happy by drivng and showing my cars.



1968 E Type Roadster
1969 E type 2+2
1987 Jaguar XJ-SC V12 Champagne/Beige interior - 48k orig miles
1989 Jaguar XJ-S V12 Red/Beige - Dayton wire wheels
1992 Jaguar XJS V12 White/Beige - Alpine CD/MP3

scoupe89 Avatar
scoupe89 Jim Dunne
Phoenix, AZ, USA   USA
1968 Jaguar E-Type Convertible "Silver Bullet Roadster"
1969 Jaguar E-Type 2+2
1987 Jaguar XJ-SC "Hanger Queen"
1992 Jaguar XJ-S
Any updates? If Manf. Date is April ‘67 it is a Series I body. Enjoy the car!



1968 E Type Roadster
1969 E type 2+2
1987 Jaguar XJ-SC V12 Champagne/Beige interior - 48k orig miles
1989 Jaguar XJ-S V12 Red/Beige - Dayton wire wheels
1992 Jaguar XJS V12 White/Beige - Alpine CD/MP3

Wingnut2 Dale M
Corolla, NC, USA   USA
My '70 2+2 is a weekly driver ( exercised @ once a week), not a period-correct show car. It looks great, drives great, but would get low scores at a concours event. This is what you need to decide upon...will it be a road car or a garage queen? Road car to enjoy driving or trailer-pulled show car? Makes decisions easier!

I have the (original) dual Stromburgs with the original Jaguar throttle linkage now, but was recently impressed with a friend's e-type switch to triple webers (along with upgraded linkage). The sound that the triple webers make is simply amazing. Growls and roars like a Jaguar should! If your "original" sound is less than appealing (as is mine) this may be a change consideration, cost was @ $1500 USD (installed himself). The owner stated a horsepower increase also with the Webers, he estimates 25 - 30 hp increase.
Just remember to keep ALL old original parts! Clean them up, tag them, and save for your (or your son's) future plans for the Jag.

sjoholm Avatar
sjoholm ROBERT BAYERS
Annapolis, MD, USA   USA
I modified the Strombergs in my Series 2 to give closer to S1 performance. Mainly reworking distributor from vac retard to vac advance, recurve it and prep front carb for vacuum. British Vacuum Unit (https://www.britishvacuumunit.com/) will do all the work at great price. Also wire the secondary butterflies open. Good performance plus mileage. I've used OSJI for interior pieces and they were very responsive. You need to call rather than email.



Robert Sjöholm Bayers
1971 Jaguar Series II OTS
1952 Jaguar 120 Roadster
1961 Jaguar Mark IX Saloon
1961 Porsche 356B 1600N Coupe
1961 Porsche 356B 1600 Super Roadster
1958 Porsche 356A Speedster

MrZ Chad Zagorski
Clarkston, USA   USA
Thanks for all the great advice!!! I am leaning towards the triple weber conversion, if nothing else than for the sound they make. The Strombergs on the car now are not original to the car anyway, and the SU's are expensive.

In the meantime, I had front and rear 3-point inertial reel seatbelts made up by Quick Fit SBS. The car did not have any seatbelts when I received it, kind of an issue, especially with kids. They look great. I had a local company familiar with building race cars weld them in for me.

My thought with this car is to make a nice driver out of it. Bring the safety up a bit, make it run a little stronger, improve the paint, but not to the point where I am afraid to drive it.


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Sean 911s 63 XKE Coupe M
Calgary, AB, Canada   CAN
In reply to # 14879 by Glyn Ruck Having just completed a ground up restoration of a 1965/66 S Type, manual, OD on wires I can highly recommend John Skinner for upholstery kits. Jonathon goes well beyond the call of duty to ensure customer satisfaction.

https://www.john-skinner.co.uk/

I also had my interior made by John Skinner., I researched over a period of a year before making my choice.
Johnathon was very helpful, knowledgeable and delivered very close to the date he estimated.
Very good quality, priced reasonably for the level of quality workmanship and materials.
Delivery time was reasonable, better than most others could offer.
I did spend a year researching prices, quality of materials, talking to other people who had dealt with him and others.
Several companies charge quite a bit more, especially if located in the States.
I have no hesitation recommending John Skinner, the interior is one of the more expensive elements of what you buy when doing a restoration and can make a big difference to the final outcome of a restoration.

Jeffery L Jeffery Stifel
Cincinnati, OH, USA   USA
Congratulations. The best advice I can give you is to know when to stop. I have my 1968 2+2 on a rotisserie right now undergoing a total restoration, in another year or two I'll almost be halfway done.

ejag66 Avatar
ejag66 Platinum Member Ward Hill
Ridgeley, WV, USA   USA
RE Stromberg vs SU, I recently bought a used set of SU HD8 complete with manifold, links, air cleaner housing and air horn. All in bad shape. Spend many hours and dollars to refurb and rebuild all (picture), and then decided not to replace the Strombergs because of the difficulty in removing the dual manifold with the engine in the car. So key question is will you remove the engine? I am assuming you will if repaint is planned. Then carb replacement is easy and mine are available.

So, since I was having a problem with hot idle, I sent my Strombergs to Joe Curto for rebuild and removed the secondary butterfly valves to improve tip-in response. After removing the throttle plates, the shafts come out in two parts (pic). Now the openings at each end must be plugged. I found that these openings (3/8 inch) are exactly the tap diameter for a 7/16 NC thread, so I tapped and installed a cap screw in each end after cutting and grinding to be flush with the port. Use the red thread locker to seal and retain the screw.

Finally, I recently refurbished a Series 1 OTS that had been restored years earlier and repainted with BRG. As you may know this is a paint of many colors. See my earlier posts for research on a good match for the correct shade.

Enjoy the work. The doing is often more fun than the having!


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Coeshow Avatar
Coeshow Mike C
El Cajon, CA, USA   USA
This is how I solved the preheat manifold issue with my Strombergs. I simply removed it entirely. After analyzing the carbs during this change, I made a few simple mods to the carbs that allow this setup to run, idle and perform significantly better than the original setup.


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