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Engine very stiff after rebuild

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Puddinhead Avatar
Puddinhead Patrick Forestell
Ocala, FL, USA   USA
My situation has improved ; sort of. Cranking speed has dramatically improved (with plugs in) due to no longer using jumper cables between external battery and starter. Now battery is hooked directly to car terminals. The jump cables offered too much resistance.

However, the intake suction was weak and so far I can't get it to fire. Sent D22 off for a rebuild.

Compression with SU system off car is 150, with SU system on car and butterflies closed I get 60.

Oil pressure is anemic at 5 during cranking.


Patrick
'66 fhc

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Puddinhead Avatar
Puddinhead Patrick Forestell
Ocala, FL, USA   USA
In reply to # 14410 by erlewis Unless your bores are fully resurfaced and new rings, there is no good reason for friction like you describe. Easy driving can break in stiff rings but a tight rear seal won't wear, it will get hot.

My liners are new standard size with new 8:1 pistons and new rings.

Patrick
'66 fhc

Puddinhead Avatar
Puddinhead Patrick Forestell
Ocala, FL, USA   USA
Solved ! Problem turned out to be the D22 distributor, once D22 was rebuilt it start fine.

Thanks,
Patrick
'66 FHC

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M. Personne John T
Champagne, Dordogne, France   FRA
Well, here I am again, having first posted this years ago!

It has been a story of two steps forward and one back, or recently the reverse. First of all I'm pleased to say that having turned over the engine with the starter a few times with plugs out and oil down the bores I can now turn it by hand much easier using a torque wrench about 18" long.

As a result I decided to get on with the outstanding jobs needed before attempting to start the engine and the first of these was to fit the exhaust. An easy job I thought. However I found that the down pipes from the 6-branch, from a different supplier to those who supplied the rest of the stainless system, didn't fit the secondary pipes that go on to the twin silencers and had to take them to a local company to have their ends enlarged slightly to fit. That was a pain but is now done.

So, on to the brakes which needed to be bled. In the course of doing that I had leaks from almost everywhere which took some time to sort out, when I found that the bleed nipples supplied by the provider of the new copper pipes were the wrong ones and they all had to be changed by swapping them for the originals. That is also now done but only after 2 days with the help of a friend and with a garage floor covered in brake fluid.

Then it was time to fill with antifreeze only to find a leak from the water pump so I bought a water pump kit, which led to another problem and leads me to my first question. When comparing the shaft which has the impeller at one end and the flange for the pulley at the other I have found that the new shaft is 4mm shorter than the original. If I line up the holes on the bearing for the grub screw the shaft is 2mm shorter than the original at each end. Is this OK or have they (SNG Barratt) supplied me with the wrong kit?

Second question; the longer end of the shaft to which the impeller is fitted has a "rough" finish whereas the other end for the pulley flange is smooth. As I assume that both ends are an interference fit this seems odd?

Third question; do I fit the ceramic disk and seal to the shaft and then have the impeller pressed on before offering it up to the pump body? Or is it best to have the impeller and pulley flange pressed on at the same time? Until I know how to do it the water pump will have to wait.

I then moved on to the timing, but I think it's better if I post that separately.

Many thanks in advance for any advice you can give.

John

DAWTRIJAG Avatar
DAWTRIJAG David Warr
St. George's, NL, Canada   CAN
Hello John,
I used SNG's water pump rebuild kit years ago to fix my 3.8 Mk2 engine. The rebuild kit was good but I had to be careful to make sure that the impeller was not pressed on too far so that there was clearance. It worked well and still is working well. The kit does say that the parts are not interchangeable with the original pump. The original pump was in good condition except that the seals had perished. To be expected after fifty years.
Just make sure you have ample clearance for the impeller.

David

M. Personne John T
Champagne, Dordogne, France   FRA
Thanks, David.

I'm assuming you mean that the original and the replacement parts aren't identical, and that this is OK. Have noted your comment about not pressing the impeller in too far and I'll do my best to pass that on to the machine shop.

Am hoping that someone can comment on my question regarding how to press on the impeller at one end and the pulley flange at the other.

Thanks again,

John

DAWTRIJAG Avatar
DAWTRIJAG David Warr
St. George's, NL, Canada   CAN
Yes the new parts were not interchangeable with the old parts. I did the job myself using a press at the local service station. You can probably do the job yourself if you have a big enough vice. Measure the space between the body of the pump and the pulley before you take the pump apart and just press the pulley until you get the same space.

David

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DAWTRIJAG Avatar
DAWTRIJAG David Warr
St. George's, NL, Canada   CAN
John,

There is a very good video on YouTube showing how to rebuild a water pump. Probably not a jag pump but very similar.
Actually there are more videos as well.
David

M. Personne John T
Champagne, Dordogne, France   FRA
Thanks for your replies, David. Will have a look at the video and let you know how I get on. John

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M. Personne John T
Champagne, Dordogne, France   FRA
Hello Jason. Ha ha. Very amusing. Did make me chuckle, though I'm in southwest France and had no plans to tow it quite as far as Italy!

The good news it that having turned it over several times with plenty of oil in the bores it has freed up a little and I can now turn it over by hand without too much effort using a 15" bar.

The bad news, as reported elsewhere, is that upon bleeding the brakes and starting to fill with antifreeze my feet got wet thanks to a badly leaking water pump, and attempting to rebuild that is the subject of another post. When I've got that sorted I will try to start the engine.

Two steps forward and one back.

John

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