After applying the brakes, they stay on unless a sharp jab is giver to the pedal. I have changed the master cylinder rubber twice, bled the brakes, cleaned all calipers, and shortened the actuation rod slightly to allow the pressure relief hole in the master to be more uncovered. Nothing helps significantly. I am ready to buy a new master as the car does not pull to any side - seems to be even braking. Any ideas out there?

Hi Ian, welcome.

How did you determine the brakes are staying on? On jack stands with the wheels free floating, and then pressing the brake pedal? And then you can't spin the wheels freely after pedal release, are they stuck on or dragging? Strange problem, just trying to get some more information for the resident experts....

Seems unlikely, but the hoses to the calipers can collapse on the inside creating a kind of one-way valve, but I've only seen it on very very old brake lines, and it's unlikely it would effect all the wheels simultaneously.

Skye

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Webmaster, The Jaguar Experience

Not a lot of XJ220's out there to help with experience on theses topics, I would call the Riverside Raceway Museum, My friend Doug Magnon has an XJ220 there, and his Mechanic may be able to help you. (951) 369-6966

Has nothing to do with a bear with a camera...I presume...Have you contacted Gary Bartlett?

Hello Ian,
I had a similar problem on my Daimler V8 after totaly overhauling tha brake system including filling with silicone brake fluid. The brakes would stay on after braking for about 10 seconds or so and people following me said my brake lights stayed on for this period as well. I replaced the master cylinder and brake servo (they are seperate units) to no avail. After seeing some reconditioned brake servos for sale at a car rally with a sticker on each saying DO NOT USE SILICON BRAKE FLUID, I changed my fluid to the original type and spec and the problem went away.
Good Luck
Alan Whitwood

Hi Skye, Alan, and responders:
The brakes stay on significantly enough to affect the engine power, and the brake light lit also. Alan, - a very interesting post. The first time I flushed the fluid, I noticed a distinct seperation between the old and the new fluid in the catch jar (I used the specified Castrol SRF). The previous owner may have used silicon and swollen all the seals? Although I have bled the brakes again, the damage may have been done.

I experienced this issue with my Mark 2, which had undergone an extensive mechanical rebuild. At times I would stop at a traffic signal and would feel strong brake drag as I started off. In the course of solving this I disassembled all four calipers and found them relined in stainless steel and in perfect condition. I also learned that these early Dunlop brakes had a system to help retract the pads after braking, something that I believe all manufacturers find unnecessary. Whether the system ever worked is not known by me. In an effort to determine which brake was dragging, I bought a thermometer gun (for lack of a better name) that allowed me to check the temperature at each brake rotor after a drive. This didn't find a single caliper with elevated temperature.. I then replaced the front rubber hoses, as someone suggested on the Jag Lovers forum that the brake hoses were somehow collapsing internally and causing the brakes to stay on. I had little faith in this idea, as my car's rebuild had seen virtually everything in the car's drive train. Nonetheless, after replacing the hoses, the braking issue went away. I had acquired the single "soft" hose for the rear brakes as well, but didn't bother to swap it in because the problem seems to have gone away.